Weather wet, cold, gray, in between some days clear, warm, blue. Autumn on southern hemisphere. A bit south of Bariloche: Pampa Linda. The Name ("beautiful Pampa"), a logic consequent of location - at the end of a remote valley - and view - majestic Volcano Tronador surmounts the valley. An isolated farm in old times, nowadays coffee shop and popular by tourists and locals. The landscape can be easily enjoyed out of the minibus, viewpoints are less than 5 minutes walk beside the next parking lot. With a small group from the Hostel I explore the beautiful valley, the hike to Refugio Otto Meiling (starting point to climb Tronador) I defer to next time.

Two, three weeks later. The weather oracle promises a full week fine Autumn weather, new moon in addition and volcano Copahue spits some smoke. Sounds exciting, auspicious. On 4 odd wheels to north, first destination: Pucon in Chile. Volcano Villarrica located in the same named national park waits for ascent. In the local, very friendly Hostel they "strongly" advice to ascent in guided groups, terrain and conditions are "extremely difficult". "Dangerous!". Mh, lets see, but okay, finally group not solo. 6.30 a.m., 14 pay willing novice mountaineers and 3 guides get stuffed in a minibus and consigned to the starting point. Ascent at dawn. Intermittently the Wind, some of the group start stumbling, crucify themselves on unknown crampons some small steps higher. Break under a ridge, I climb up to the ridge with a guy and a guide, the blows even faster up there. The guides decide the - for the most - right, descend. Understandable, some are nearby done. Not so Vincent from France (very cool page!) and me, we would love to have gone further. In the evening hot thermals under a bright milky way on the starry sky.

Meanwhile, Vulcan Copahue decided to delay his eruption, yellow alert instead of red, evacuation undone, no smoke left. But right next to it - on Chilean side - a small preserve lives his unfrequent visited existence. Reserva nacional Ralco, 12.421 acres big nugget beside the upper section of Rio Biobío, far end of a remote, bad 70km long gravel road. A handful of Pehuenches Families - the natives - lives in the preserve, two ranger watch at the entrance. They are quite surprised, I'm the first visitor since 5 weeks, at all, Gringos can hardly be seen here. Little surprising, nearby no tourism infrastructures or informations, onerous approach and there is acute lack on trails and marks. Only on beauty, on beauty it certainly does not lack. Slopes filled by evergreen Araukarien, steep walls mark the valley end, between trees and valleys view of Volcano "Callaqui". After a 17km hike trough mystic forests the goal for the day: "Laguna Mula". The setting sun burns the horizon, covers the polished lake with a blaze and leaves it at some point to the sparkling night to put the solitary observer at the waters edge into ecstasy.

Heinrich said: "Bah, ouch! these shitty Araucarias, you can't eat that prickly shit! Okay, they look nice, but if you can't eat it, it needs to be abolished! And by the way: these car driving... Much too fast and on that shaking gravel I always muck up my fur!! At least, there was some good wine in Pucon..."